March 2017

Fly Of the Month The Red Buzzer (Roy Coulson)

Special thanks to Roy Coulson for this month’s fly tying demonstration, the Red Buzzer. Roy started fishing in the UK, where he captained the Derbyshire Team.

He fished in the All England competition and finished 29th out of 700. 

Roy has been fly tying for over forty years and was also a tutor. He came from Taupo to demonstrate this fly, and prepared very good notes, including a pre-tied sample for all who came to the demonstration. Roy uses the red buzzer as a very effective fish catching pattern in lakes like Otamangakau and Aniwhenua. He usually fishes the Red Buzzer as the dropper, a damsel nymph on point and a dry fly as indicator. He says it is best fished static, or with a gentle lift and drop action….in many cases wave action will do the trick.

Hook:           Kamasan B110 Grubber, size 10 – 16

Thread:         Red Glo-brite Fluorescent floss (Shade No. 3)


Red Buzzer

Rib:           .007” copper wire

Wing Bud:    Mylar Holographic tinsel (red)

Wingcase:   Mylar tinsel (Pearl)


  1. Tie on the red floss then double the floss over and tie it under the bed of floss from the eye to just around the bend of the hook. This leaves a loop which will eventually become the tail.
  2. Tie in the copper wire from the wing bud position (about 1/3 of the hook from the eye) to the tail, winding the red floss over it.
  3. Wind the red floss up to the wing bud position. Try to make 9-10 winds as this will indicate the correct number of segments.
  4. Wind copper wire to the wing bud position giving a segmented look, tie off and trim.
  5. Tie in the red Mylar wing buds keeping them evenly positioned each side of the fly.
  6. Tie in the pearl Mylar wing case on the top of the fly
  7. Build up the thorax area with tying thread.
  8. Pull both wing buds and the wing case to the tie-off point behind the eye and whip finish.
  9. Cut the loop in the tail to a realistic length.
  10. Apply resin and cure with a UV light.

                 Roy says this is a simple tie, but I found it quite tricky getting the Mylar tinsel in the correct place and tied down neatly……I obviously need more practise!


February 2017

Two flies this month, The Lazy Bugger & The Pork & Peacock. 


Lazy Bugger

The Lazy Bugger. Tied and demonstrated by Neal Hawes: Neal explained that this fly was developed from a fly tied by Pat O’Keefe for fishing Lake Aniwhenua. This is Neal’s own version, especially useful where the trout are used to dining off small goldfish.

Hook:           8, 10, 12

Thread:         Black or to match body

Head:           Red glass bead

Body:            Chenille, brown, olive or any

Tail:                 Marabou

Hackle:           To match body


Put bead on hook, and tie thread  to tail as usual, glue to hook if desired.

Tie on a marabou tail about hook length or a little more.

Tie in chenille at tail, and wind thread to front.

Wind chenille to head and tie off. Trim.

Tie the hackle in just behind the bead head. Tie in by the tip, and make 3-4 turns before tying off and trimming. Tie in a head ensuring hackles lay back towards tail.


The Pork and Peacock. Tied and demonstrated by Neal Hawes:  Neal developed this fly after a pig-hunting trip with his Aussie mates. The beauty of using pig bristles (those from along the back of a wild boar) is that they are already split at the tips to make a realistic tail.


Pork & Peacock

Hook:           12, 14

Thread:         Black

Tail:                 4-5 pig bristles

Body:              Black thread

Thorax:            Peacock herl (1 or 2 as desired)

Wingcase:     Pig bristles



Tie thread  to tail as usual, glue to hook if desired.

Tie on pig bristles for tail and tie about half way uo the hook, adding thread as necessary to make a tapered body.

At the half-way point, bend back the bristles to keep them out of the way and tie on 1-2 peacock herls.

Twist peacock herl around thread for strength, then wind up to the  head in close turns to make the thorax.

Now lay the long pig bristles over the thorax to make a wingcase, tie down firmly at the head and trim.

Tie a small head, then whip finish or use a half-hitch finish before cutting thread.