Fly Of the Month– The Adams Dry Fly
Instructor: Wayne Woodward
This fly is considered a general imitation of a an adult mayfly, flying caddis or midge. It was designed by Leonard Halliday from Mayfield, Michigan in 1922, at the request of his friend Charles Adams. The Adams has been considered one of the most popular, versatile, effective and best-selling dry flies since its creation.
Dry Fly Hook: #10-20 (Black Magig F12 used tonight)
Wing: Grizzly hackle Wing Tips (opposed)
Body: Grey dubbing
Tail: Grizzly and Red Furnace hackle fibres combined
Hackle/s: Grizzly and Red Furnace Hackle to match hook size.
- Tie in the wings facing forward and wrap thread to hold wings upright. Use a figure 8 tie to separate wings. Make the wings equal in height to the length of the hook shank. Leave enough distance in front of the wings to fisish the fly.
- Wrap thread to tie in the tail fibres, ensuring they are equal to the hook length.
- Dub forward to create a carrot-shaped body stopping behind the wings leaving enough room to tie in the hackles.
- Tie in one grizzly hackle first, then two red furnace hackles, with dull sides facing you. Wind the red hackles 2-3 times behind the wings, then forward in front of the wings. Wrap a couple of turns in front of the wings and then tie off. Then wind the grizzly hackle forward in the same manner and tie off.
- Whip finish using the Matarellui whip finisher, or half hitch tool if you’ve been to Phil’s fly-tying class. Cement the thread head ensuring the eye of the hook is clear.
Fly Of the Month– Making mono eyes for a damsel nymph.
Instructor: Joe Fleet
To make eyes for your damsel nymph you need a short length of 10-20lb mono line. (1-2 cm depending on size of the fly you wish to tie.)
Hold the piece of line with your forceps in the centre. Now use the flame from a lighter to melt one end of the line, forming a ball. Burn the other end in the same way. You will be left with a short length of nylon with a ball shape on either end, like dumbbell eyes. You can colour the eyes if you wish using a waterproof marker pen.
Wind on the thread about twelve wraps, no more than a third of the hook shankfrom behind the eye . Lay the mono eyes along the shaft of the hook .about four or five mm back from the hook eye. Tie on with 2-3 wraps using the pinch method then turn the eyes so they lay either side of the shaft. Tie in firmly with figure 8 winds of the thread.
Take a small piece of straight marabou not the more bodied type of marabou that is usually used when tying woolly buggers. Tie it in directly behind the mono eye. Just a few wraps to secure as this nymph needs to be sparse, almost transparent in fact. The marabou should extend 1-2 hook lengths for the tail but do not trim the excess.
Now pull the excess marabou forward and tie it in front of the hook eye make a few wraps to give the impression of the damsel flies mandibles Return the tying thread behind the mono eyes and wrap once Then pull the marabou back between the eyes and tie it again behind the eyes. Always use the pinch method when securing your materials to any hook
Now cut the excess marabou leaving a short stub to form the wing case.
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Fly Of the Month – The Red Buzzer (Roy Coulson)
Special thanks to Roy Coulson for this month’s fly tying demonstration, the Red Buzzer. Roy started fishing in the UK, where he captained the Derbyshire Team.
He fished in the All England competition and finished 29th out of 700.
Roy has been fly tying for over forty years and was also a tutor. He came from Taupo to demonstrate this fly, and prepared very good notes, including a pre-tied sample for all who came to the demonstration. Roy uses the red buzzer as a very effective fish catching pattern in lakes like Otamangakau and Aniwhenua. He usually fishes the Red Buzzer as the dropper, a damsel nymph on point and a dry fly as indicator. He says it is best fished static, or with a gentle lift and drop action….in many cases wave action will do the trick.
Hook: Kamasan B110 Grubber, size 10 – 16
Thread: Red Glo-brite Fluorescent floss (Shade No. 3)
Rib: .007” copper wire
Wing Bud: Mylar Holographic tinsel (red)
Wingcase: Mylar tinsel (Pearl)
- Tie on the red floss then double the floss over and tie it under the bed of floss from the eye to just around the bend of the hook. This leaves a loop which will eventually become the tail.
- Tie in the copper wire from the wing bud position (about 1/3 of the hook from the eye) to the tail, winding the red floss over it.
- Wind the red floss up to the wing bud position. Try to make 9-10 winds as this will indicate the correct number of segments.
- Wind copper wire to the wing bud position giving a segmented look, tie off and trim.
- Tie in the red Mylar wing buds keeping them evenly positioned each side of the fly.
- Tie in the pearl Mylar wing case on the top of the fly
- Build up the thorax area with tying thread.
- Pull both wing buds and the wing case to the tie-off point behind the eye and whip finish.
- Cut the loop in the tail to a realistic length.
- Apply resin and cure with a UV light.
Roy says this is a simple tie, but I found it quite tricky getting the Mylar tinsel in the correct place and tied down neatly……I obviously need more practise!